16 August 2023
The Richness of Lawrence
Kei te Taiao. Back Roads.
WRITER: Jessica Dermody
PHOTOGRAPHER: Anna Brook
The charming Clutha District town of Lawrence has welcomed people with open arms for nearly 200 years, including Julie Hellewell, 39, who settled in Lawrence thirteen years ago when she and husband Murray, 41, took over West Ridge – 640 hectares of sheep and beef country high in the hills. Now with daughters Riley, 9, and McKenna, 6, the family couldn’t imagine themselves anywhere else. Shepherdess writer Jessica Dermody spends a day with Julie exploring like a local, enjoying everything from historic landmarks and eclectic shops to serene retreats that will entice you to stay a while.
Top image. Julie, Murray and Min the horse. “This is on the north side of our farm, West Ridge looking out towards Lawrence,” Julie says. “We're actually not that far from the house.” Above. “We farm 3,600 ewes and 1,000 hoggets. Murray does the crux of the physical farm work now,” Julie says.
How did you find yourself in Lawrence? I grew up in South Otago, farming on the Clinton side of Ōwaka Valley. Murray and I have known each other since we were babies – our families camped together at Glendhu Bay in Wānaka. We both love the rodeo scene – I was a barrel racer, he was a roper. We reconnected at competitions and the rest is history!
We were farming on Murray’s family property in Heriot, West Otago. The land was worth a lot and there was no way we were going to be able to buy into the farm. But an opportunity came up in Lawrence – West Ridge. It was a lot bigger than where we were, and hilly. We love our horses and hunting, so the lay of the land was right up our alley. The owners were retiring and gave us the opportunity of a lifetime – a lease-to-buy deal with a locked-in price. That type of thing is pretty unheard of now, they’re very good people. We will forever be thankful they gave us a shot.
West Ridge is well known for something else – your lamb wool jerseys. How did that idea come to fruition? It came from my husband’s frustration with wool prices four or five years ago – and unfortunately the money still isn’t any better. Murray came up with the idea in the tractor – he thinks a lot in there! We got talking with our wool buyer at the time, and next thing you know we’re having meetings at Otago Knitwear and all sorts. We make them from our Perendale lambs’ wool, and the first few weren’t great. We just kept tweaking and the business grew organically from there. In Otago and Southland we always see people wearing them, which is so cool. We get lots of local support from shearing gangs and dog-trial clubs. When big orders come in, it’s all go!
Tell us about balancing farm work with the jersey business. I try to get on farm as much as I can, but nowhere near what I used to do. Before I had the girls, I had a team of working dogs and worked as a nurse a couple of days a week. I haven’t gone back to nursing since having kids – we’re just busy enough! For big farm jobs like weaning and tailing we get a couple of casual workers in, and sometimes a van load of Telford students – a nearby training institute. Murray’s dad helps us out with tractor work in the summer, which we’re extremely grateful for. But we don’t have any full-time help, it’s just us.
Julie says, “The girls definitely get out on the farm. They love mustering blocks – whether on foot or on pony – and pushing sheep up in the yards. They have a pony each that they ride on farm and at pony club. They also have daily chores – feeding their ponies at night, picking up pony poo and feeding the chooks.”
What’s life like in the area? Way up in the hills, it seems like we’re in the middle of nowhere, but we’re only ten minutes from Lawrence’s township. It’s a fabulous place with community-minded people, I would struggle to live anywhere else. Riley and McKenna go to Lawrence Area School, and they both absolutely love it. There are heaps of sporting opportunities – both girls play rugby, and the community pool is right next door to the school. They’re also really into hunting with their dad, so they keep us busy!
So would you now call Lawrence home? Lawrence is a real home for us now. The kids definitely helped through kindergarten and school. We both naturally slotted into roles and helping out. I’m treasurer at the Lawrence Rodeo Club and Murray’s past president. I’m also secretary at Lawrence’s Junior Rugby Club.
When the kids were little, we were away nearly every weekend with rodeo. If we weren’t competing, we were practising. It’s such a fun sport, and all our good friends did it too, but that also meant we weren’t as involved in the community. When Murray and I stopped competing, we started hunting on our horses with hounds. We all ride a lot; we use horses on the farm and both kids go to pony club. Now that we don’t compete in rodeos, we’re graced with more time to get out and about in the Lawrence community. We just absolutely love it!
EAT
Waitāhuna Station Coffee Cart
En route from Dunedin to Lawrence, you’ll spot a red coffee cart. Owned by Ailsa Rose and parked on her property beside the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail, the Waitāhuna Station Coffee Cart is a welcome sight for tired bikers. It boasts a cabinet stocked with yummy treats and brilliant coffee with beans from a local supplier. Ailsa and her husband, Bob Corona, along with local building team Dave and Robyn Barkman, are currently restoring two proud 1800s railway buildings into an on-site museum and cafe.
Ailsa says, “The land has been in our family for three generations, so it feels special to be giving it new life. Neither Bob nor I come from a hospitality background, but we are doing what feels right for the community and land. We are loving the adventure so far. The coffee cart has become something we didn’t anticipate – a real hub for the area that visitors seem to appreciate.”
The Prospector
For a cuppa in town, Julie recommends The Prospector for getting a tea or coffee. An ideal pitstop whilst nosing around shops, here you’ll find tasty slices, friendly service and a great cheese scone.
SEE & DO
Lawrence Chinese Camp
Significant gold-mining foundations mean Lawrence has a rich history. A stone’s throw away from town on the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail, you’ll find the Lawrence Chinese Camp – Otago’s largest and earliest gold-mining settlement. At its peak in the 1880s, the thriving trading hub was home to more than 120 people, and three original buildings of this Category 1 New Zealand Historic Place remain for you to take a peek back in time.
Bellview Wetlands Reserve and Gabriel’s Gully
Crossing the bridge to Bellview Wetlands is like stepping back in time. Owner Steven Robertson has restored original buildings from the gold rush and replanted six hectares of wetlands with help from the local school. Julie’s favourite chocolate shop – The Lawrence Mint – sets up here in the warmer months and she highly recommends the mint patties – think giant chocolate mint slice biscuits. To walk off all that chocolate, bring walking shoes and explore nearby Gabriel’s Gully, where gold was discovered in 1861 and sparked one of the world’s largest gold rushes.
Country Mouse
15 Ross Place
Located on the main street, Country Mouse is filled with jewellery and cosy knitwear, but the biggest gem is Loyis Stewart. In her 50th year of ownership, she’s the heart of the town. The gold rush meant the service aspects of the Lawrence township used to be more angled towards men. As a young woman, Loyis thought, “What does Lawrence need? It needs something for the ladies!” Her shelves have amazing pieces, but her stories make a visit especially worthwhile. “You can do anything if you sit around long enough,” she laughs.
The Boat Shed Antiques
5 Whitehaven Street
John Broadbay’s shed is overflowing with so many trinkets that you may struggle to find him inside. From Olympic medals to paintings, vintage bikes and figurines, combing through the Boat Shed is a trip down memory lane. John has been collecting since he was eight years old, and his enthusiasm for the area, along with his shed – which used to be a Methodist church – doubles as a history lesson.
O'lea Design
On the main street of Lawrence, interior designer and O’lea owner Elizabeth “Liz” Ritchie has curated her shop so beautifully it feels like you’re standing in her lounge. After Shepherdess spotted a beautiful wallpaper in her stock, she opened her own house up the road to show what it looked like on a wall. Liz says the shop is an easy place to spend time. “Everyone’s so relaxed when they come in. We take it slow in Lawrence.”
Clutha Gold Cycling and Walking Trail
One of the Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Great Rides, the Clutha Gold Cycle Trail snakes through rolling farmlands, flirting with the Clutha River's edge. Stretching between Roxburgh Dam and Lawrence, it’s an easy way to take yourself beyond the main road. Soon to be extended to Lake Waihola, the trail is best enjoyed leisurely over two or three days to take maximum advantage of the region’s scenic wonder and to learn about its rich heritage.
STAY
Pickled Pigeon Cottage
The perfect place to unplug and reconnect, the Pigeon’s lodge seeps history. It dates back to at least the late 1800s and has been tastefully refurbished. The property gardens are bursting with colour and it’s within walking distance of the main street.
Brooklands NZ
Brooklands’ host, Lisa Wilson, is Liz from O’lea’s twin sister. The duo used to co-own O’lea, and the accommodation at Brooklands is a living example of their interior talent. Elegant wallpaper and timeless art give the old family farmhouse an English charm. Lisa goes above and beyond – there’s complimentary breakfast and every modern necessity you’ll need. Arriving in the colder months, the fire will be lit and waiting for you. Cosy up and leave the curtains open – the sleepy, rolling hills of Lawrence go as far as the eye can see and make for an ever-changing picture. You’ll be joined by Sirrabi – the family cat refused to move to her new home, and she’s a lovely, cuddly bonus host.
This feature was made possible thanks to support from Clutha NZ. Visit cluthanz.com to start planning your trip to the Clutha District.
You might remember Erin Lee reminiscing about growing up in Lawrence, which we shared in our Takurua Winter 2022 Edition. Read her story here.
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This story appeared in the Takurua Winter 2023 Edition of Shepherdess.
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