28 May 2021
A Weekend in Clyde
Kei Te Taiao. Back Roads.
Writer: Emma Todd
Photographer: Rebecca Dwyer
Central Otago is famous for its fiery autumn colours and the region is spoilt for choice when it comes to finding places to admire them. Top of the pack is Clyde, a quaint village with a beautifully preserved historic main street and dramatic poplars along the riverbank. As well as prime photo spots, there’s plenty here to entertain the curious visitor. In the first of our Back Roads features – where we ask locals to be our guide and give us a tour of their town – Harriet Enright and Andrew Jopp share the very best this special little spot has to offer.
"The landscapes and lifestyle are what drew me here," says Harriet, 31, a keen hiker and snowboarder. And it's thanks to her partner, Andrew, 34, that she has permanently made this remarkable countryside her home. Andrew's family property, Moutere Station - where the couple now lives - is located between Clyde and nearby Alexandra. "We love it here," says Harriet. "It's a super small town, but there is so much to do, and it has a real community feel.
Andrew is the fifth generation of his family to work the merino and cattle property and continue their strong ties to the local merino community. While Harriet travels to a law firm in Cromwell, a twenty minute drive away, along the shores of Lake Dunstan. Being a lawyer in Central Otago means she's often meeting clients on the farm - or orchard - something that gives her a lot of joy. "Autumn is a particularly special time in Clyde," says Harriet. "The weather is a bit more settled, with crisp mornings turning into bluebird days. The trees are changing colour, so it's picturesque. We might have the fire on in the evenings, but the days are stunning, so we make the most of the sunshine."
On the weekend, the young couple make the most of what Clyde has to offer. "Our weekend routine is to take our dog, Mondo, along the river for a walk. We then pick up coffee, fresh ciabatta and other local delights from the deli at Olivers. We take our goodies home to make brunch with our home-laid eggs. Depending on the season, we may also pick up some fresh stone fruit from across the bridge or cherries from the local market," says Harriet. "Nectarines, apples, olive oil and lots of berries all grown here." Sunny autumn afternoons call for a drink and live music in town, followed by a movie at the local Cinema.
Clyde also has many beautiful old buildings, a memento of Clyde's time as a gold-rush hub during the 1800s. "Clyde was the government town in the area originally," says Andrew, even though the population of Alexandra is now larger. "That's why Clyde has so many historic buildings." Over the years, the local community has made sure these precious buildings are cared for. "They've put in a lot of effort to make sure Clyde has kept its charm," Harriet says. "It makes the town so special. It's been so well maintained; you feel like it should be in a museum. Many of the local shops have kept their names, including the Post Office Café & Bar and The Bank Café."
Beyond the town's old-world streets, the immense tawny mountains and deep blue Clutha Mata-Au River are Harriet and Andrew's playground. "The river is stunning-it's fast flowing, but you can walk all along the bank which is really pretty," says Harriet. "It's a local gem, there's not many like it in the South Island." It's this charm, and so much more, that makes Clyde the perfect spot for a weekend visit.
EAT
Olivers Merchant of Clyde Café and Deli
“We go to the deli every weekend,” says Harriet.“The best ciabatta in the world! We pair it with local smoked salmon.” Next door is Olivers fine-dining restaurant. “If we want a nice meal out, we’ll go there for dinner,” she says. “And they put on music on a Sunday afternoon.”
34 Sunderland Street
@oliversvictoriastore
olivers.co.nz
Paulina’s Tapas & Pizza Bar
Right next door to the cinema, this is the perfect place to pop in for a pre-movie drink and bite to eat. “It’s a nice restaurant that’s a bit more low-key,” says Harriet.
6 Naylor Street
@paulinas_restaurant
FIKA
A boutique Swedish bakery that’s a must-visit, says Harriet, for the cinnamon buns. Just make sure you don’t dawdle – they sell out quick so it’s best to get there early.
37 Sunderland Street
facebook.com/fikaswedishcoffeebreak
SHOP
Touch Yarns
Touch Yarns is the place for knitting enthusiasts, homeware aficionados and fashionistas alike. “It’s amazing,” says Harriet. “The shop is in an old cottage and it’s spread over multiple rooms. It makes the shopping experience feel quite personal.”
19 Sunderland Street
@touchyarnsnz
touchyarns.co.nz
Folklore
Stylish Folklore makes it easy to shop local. “It’s a very trendy store,” says Harriet.“ Alot of their homewares are locally made and from the area. I buy most of my gifts there – and the odd treat.”
19 Holloway Street
@folklorestore.clyde
folklorestore.co.nz
DO
Clyde Cinema
A classic small-town experience. “We love going to the cinema,” Harriet says. “You may not always get the latest releases, but you’re sitting in big comfy chairs.”
6A Naylor Street
clydecinema.co.nz
Eade Gallery
Clyde has several excellent small galleries, but Harriet particularly recommends this one. “What sets Eade apart is that they rotate local artists through the gallery,” she says.“The autumn colours inspire these artists. You’ll be sure to find a lovely, affordable piece.”
17A Holloway Street
@eadegallery
eadegallery.co.nz
The River Track
Starting from the old red stock bridge just below the township, this walk is “pretty easy,” says Andrew. “There’s hardly anyone there. People take their dogs and horses down there too.” Harriet adds, “The walk is right by the water and the locals do most of the maintenance along it. If a tree falls down someone will just turn up with their chainsaw to clear the path.”
Earnscleugh Bridge, Earnscleugh Road
SLEEP
The Lord Clyde
“It’s best to stay near the centre of town, and The Lord Clyde is in an awesome old historic building,” Harriet says. “It’s where we recommend friends stay.”
35 Sunderland Street
thelordclyde.co.nz
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This story appeared in the Ngahuru Autumn 2021 Edition of Shepherdess.
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