09 November 2022
A Warm Wairoa Welcome
Kei te Taiao. Back Roads.
writer: FELICITY CONNELL
photographer: CLAIRE MOSSONG
Wairoa may not be the first place you’d think of for a holiday, but Rose Haynes is a passionate ambassador for this spot at the top of Hawke’s Bay. A fifth-generation farmer, single mum and entrepreneur, Rose shares her story and recommends the walks, views and places that have captured her heart.
Rose says, “There’s family stories for every paddock, every hillside. Each generation’s planted things, so we’ve got big, old established trees.”
Based at Waihua Station, around twenty minutes down the coast from Wairoa township, Rose’s family has been living and farming on the land since her great-great-grandparents Laura-Sarah and John Glendining arrived in 1882.
“I stayed with my grandmother’s cousins in the United Kingdom and they all talked about New Zealand and Waihua Station as being ‘home,’” she says about travelling overseas in her twenties. “It reinforced to me how special this place is to so many people. My daughters are the sixth generation to live here. They know their family history and have a strong sense of being from here. They know it’s something to look after and to pass on.” Rose’s family lived in the homestead, and a cottage was built nearby for her grandmother Betty. “I loved having Gran so close. We’d catch eels, but Mum wouldn’t have them in the house, so we’d go over to Gran’s place and she’d cook them for us. It was so much fun spending time with her, and hearing her stories about growing up here,” she remembers.
Rose’s daughters Saba, 16, and Jess, 7, have grown up on the farm, just like she did. “I had an idyllic childhood. We were expected to muck-in on the farm, but we had lots of time to free-range and have adventures on the beach and the river.”
The homestead at Waihua Station, set in lovingly cared for gardens.
Despite these fond memories, Rose, 50, wasn’t initially planning a future on the farm. She returned from overseas, answering a call from her parents to help out in the short-term before continuing her travels in South America. But family circumstances changed and she was asked to stay on. “And, over twenty years later, I’m still here,” she says with a laugh. Around six years ago while farming beef cattle and Black Reef Merino crossbred sheep, Rose, like other farmers, was looking for other ways to generate more income from the farm.
“It’s such a magic spot here. I thought other people would want to come and experience it, so I set up Gran’s cottage as a holiday rental – Waihua Station Cottage,” she says. But it’s not the only family legacy Rose has adapted. “We converted Gran’s old two-storied car shed into The Farm Shop because visitors kept asking if they could try our meat. There were some initial logistical challenges to overcome in terms of getting the meat processed and back here, but it’s incredibly satisfying knowing the provenance of the meat. Some people are a bit squeamish about it, but I love that they can see exactly where their meat has come from – the whole paddock-to-plate thing. Then, because our visitors can’t just pop into town for a coffee, we bought a coffee machine and Saba trained as a barista,” Rose explains.
Only open on Sundays, The Farm Shop has a relaxed garden setting with views over the ocean. Along with your coffee you can also buy Rose’s homemade baking, and a friend of Rose’s from primary school drops off fry bread. A pizza oven, imported from Italy just before the 2020 lockdown, means that Rose and the girls are now kept busy making pizzas topped with their own lamb and chorizo. “I love the vibe here on Sundays. I don’t advertise it, so it’s all word of mouth. We never really know how many people are going to turn up but just go with the flow. Recently, after all the rain we’ve had, a car got stuck in the mud and everyone helped to push it out. It’s not your usual cafe experience, but it’s heaps of fun.”
A coffee cart has been added into the mix as another way to get out into the community. “Over summer we take the cart down to Māhia Beach. Saturdays we’re at the sports grounds so parents can get their coffee fix while watching their kids’ games. Eastend Cafe in town is closed on Mondays, so I head into Wairoa so people can still get a coffee. It’s a chance to catch up with people; everyone’s so friendly.”
The stables and native seedlings.
The open attitude, community feel and friendliness are all aspects that Rose loves about living in Wairoa, along with the easy access to the outdoors. “There are still places that feel untouched, and with the bush, the beach, the river and Lake Waikaremoana, there are so many places to explore and things to do. If you’re just starting out, there is awesome community support. Places like the local water-skiing club hire out equipment for water skiing, mountain biking, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding, which means you don’t have to buy gear if you just want to try something out, making activities more accessible for locals and visitors.”
The stables and native seedlings.
The open attitude, community feel and friendliness are all aspects that Rose loves about living in Wairoa, along with the easy access to the outdoors. “There are still places that feel untouched, and with the bush, the beach, the river and Lake Waikaremoana, there are so many places to explore and things to do. If you’re just starting out, there is awesome community support. Places like the local water-skiing club hire out equipment for water skiing, mountain biking, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding, which means you don’t have to buy gear if you just want to try something out, making activities more accessible for locals and visitors.”
A mandarin tree on the cottage grounds.
The driveway leading to the homestead.
Dressers and antiques in the morning light.
The Waihua Station Cottage lounge.
STAY
Waihua Station Cottage
Ask anyone what a stay at Waihua Station Cottage is like and they’ll all mention the warmth of the welcome, the stunning location and views, and how beautiful the cottage and its surroundings are. “One of our reviews said they felt that they were at one of their friends’ houses for the weekend, and I was thrilled, because that’s exactly what I was aiming for,” Rose says. “There’s always a bottle of wine when people arrive, and in winter I make sure the fire’s going. It means people can go straight into relax-mode.”
But what will really make your stay is Rose and her family. “Both my daughters love meeting new people. Jess in particular is super-social. She’ll take you to pick fruit from the orchard, feed the chickens, or meet her pets – we’ve got cats, dogs, ponies, a pig and a donkey. We’ve got puppies at the moment too!” Add in a spa pool where you can soak under the stars, the view and sound of the ocean, plus the opportunity to see Rocket Lab’s rockets launch from Māhia Peninsula, and you’ve got the makings of a magical stay.
165 Glendining Road
Wairoa 4197
The outside of the cottage. “I don’t think a lot about being a woman in agriculture. I saw my gran working on the farm so it’s just natural for me,” Rose says. “It’s the same for my daughters – they’ve seen what I do all their lives. I’ve taught my girls to be resilient and strong.”
DO
Māhia Beach
“Māhia Beach is my place to recharge. I head out there at least once a week for a run. It’s stunning any time of the year. In summer I try to surf, and in winter I go for a – very quick – dip in the ocean after my run. It’s cold but I feel amazing afterwards. The beach has two sides so if one’s rough, the other isn’t, and vice versa. As well as surfing, it’s great for diving, fishing and paddle boarding, or just relaxing on the golden sand.”
Shine Falls
One of Rose’s favourite walks is to Shine Falls. “It’s a bit of a drive on a gravel road to get there, but once you’re there, it’s a relatively easy 30–40 minute walk to a spectacular waterfall, the highest in the region. There are a few steep sections on the walk but it’s definitely doable for families. It’s worth a swim under the waterfall – just stunning!”
Bell Rock
“Another walk we enjoy is the Bell Rock Loop Track. It’s still family-friendly but at around two- to three-hours return, and with a decent climb, it’s a little more challenging than Shine Falls. However, the view at the top out towards the Māhia Peninsula is worth it. Wear good walking shoes and take some water with you,” Rose advises.
Mōrere Hot Springs
“It’s a short walk through bush to the Nikau Pool, and for a little bit extra, you can also hire a private pool. I’ve been coming here for years, and now my girls and their friends love coming here too.” Currently only open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, it’s worth checking on their website or Facebook page for any updates.
The Gaiety Theatre
“It’s a cool place to go and see a movie – it has super-comfy seats and apparently has the second-largest screen outside of Auckland. It’s a great addition to this creative precinct – as well as movie screenings, it regularly hosts live performances and events,” Rose says.
EAT
Eastend Cafe
Right next door to Bloom ’n Loco is Eastend Cafe. Rose says it has “delicious food with loads of gluten-free and vegan options, and of course great coffee! I regularly pop in for coffee or come here with my girls for brunch for a treat. It’s got a lovely bright interior and when the weather allows, there are tables outside with a view over to the Wairoa River. Owner Angie Whitworth has her ear to the ground about what’s going on in the community – see if she’s got any recommendations about local gigs.”
The bustling, quirky interior of Eastend Cafe.
The doors and beautiful mosaic entrance of The Gaiety Theatre.
Eastend Cafe’s outdoor tables and chairs.
Bloom ’n Loco’s modern interior with lots of beautiful gifting items, homewares and florals.
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This story appeared in the Kōanga Spring 2022 Edition of Shepherdess.
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